FILIPINO BAKED MACARONI

I am not really sure where this dish originated from but it has been part of our Noche Buena celebration for as long as I can remember. It’s only really served and eaten at that time and it’s always a hit. It’s unusual for sure, with Vienna sausage and chicken as the protein and the cheese is Queso de Bola. Our family isn’t even really that big into chicken but there it is, on the table when the Christmas season rolls in. I made it myself for the first time a few years ago when I felt nostalgic for the dishes my family would eat during the holidays and I actually made the whole spread — Tita Lydia’s Baked Ham, this pasta dish, embutido — and one day a few months ago, I wondered why I only made this dish during that time especially now when I knew how to make it. It’s so easy and amazing as it sits in the sauce for a day or two. I think it gets even better.

When I think about this dish and it’s potential origin, there are Filipino recipes out there but none really go into how it came about. My guess would be, much like the Filipino spaghetti, it came over post war through the American occupation and the ingredients were adapted and customized to what was available. Queso de Bola (or Edam cheese) originated from the Netherlands but was also brought in by the Spanish into their colonies. This cheese is mainly consumed during the holidays as well and because this dish was mainly served during the holidays, I can see how that cheese made it into this dish.

When cooking this dish, some things I’ve learned along the way is that poaching the chicken gently keeps it moist and tender. Additionally, slicing and cubing it instead of shredding it is better. Not only from a textural standpoint but it also catches with the sauce in the the little pasta crevices. For the same reason, I love dicing the Vienna sausage as well instead of cutting them into rounds. Also, I love a touch of sweetness in the sauce but unlike other recipes, I don’t add ketchup. Sugar will suffice. The amount I add depends on the tomato sauce so tasting along the way is critical. I prefer the sauce to not be cloyingly sweet. Additionally to add depth, aside from salt and pepper, fish sauce really helps. It gives the dish the appropriate level of umami. Regarding baking, many recipes create a very cheesy version and require a long bake. I think that is good too but it tends to dry out the pasta and doesn’t leave it saucy. I prefer topping the dish with cheese and putting it under the broiler to quickly brown the cheese and then removing it right away so that it gives you a crispy layer on top and leaves a saucy dish under the crispy, cheesy layer.

There are so many good pasta dishes out there so what is so special about this dish? It’s so easy to make with very few ingredients. Many of the ingredients apart from the chicken and the aromatics are probably already in your pantry so this can come together quick. It’s also a dish we tend to make and graze on so if you don’t feel like cooking a whole lot, make this and let people wander in and out of the kitchen as they get hungry. As much as this dish gets better the next day, you will find that it may not last that long.

❤️Tricia

MISWA AT BOLA BOLA

As April comes to a close and cold and wet weather permeates in Portland, our soup craving continues. One of the soups I remember having a lot growing up is Miswa at Bola Bola or Meatball Noodle Soup. Miswa is a thin wheat noodle very similar to angel hair. It’s a noodle that can be used in dry applications like Pancit but it is also amazing in noodle soups. This is a dish that is quite easy to make because it doesn’t require you to toil over the stove for hours. You can develop a lot of flavor by browning the meatballs first. This leaves fond at the bottom of the pan that you can further develop by adding aromatics then deglazing to scrape any of the brown bits off, adding flavor to your soup. Another hack is using a bouillon cube which is an instant booster. Add vegetables to make this a more substantial meal. Traditionally this soup has patola or sponge gourd. I’ve also used upo or bottle gourd. Right before serving, you add the Miswa noodles. Whether dry or fresh, this cooks quickly in the soup. I love leafy greens too so I also throw in bok choy or gai lan. You can eat this by itself or add a little steamed rice, because why not?!

As we close out Filipino Food Month, we wanted to say THANK YOU to you and to our friends that contributed (@baonkainan @brrraaady) and also joined us in cooking Filipino food this month (@ngaloppo @ehow.eats @here.portland). We hope that we inspired you to try something new with the recipes and stories we’ve shared. For us, Filipino Food isn’t just for the month of April. It’s 24/7, 365 so stay tuned for more from us in the coming months.

❤️Tricia

PASSING DOWN & CREATING TRADITION - SMOKED BRISKET KARE KARE

In Filipino food culture, traditions are often passed down verbally or by example. It isn’t unusual to get a response from your mom, lola or tita when asking how to cook something to just get a list of ingredients with no measurements and a quick explanation saying things like “sigue, gigisahin mo lang yuon” (you will just sauté ) or “sigue, pinakukuluan mo lang yuon” (you will just boil). I know it’s a source of frustration for any one of us when trying to learn how to cook our family’s recipes because those versions are so personal. These days with technology, it’s a little easier to cook with family so it was amazing to see when spending some time with Brady Tuazon documenting this recipe that we got to spend time with his mom cooking too, even if it was via FaceTime. For Brady and his family, cooking is a family affair. It’s how they stay in touch, it’s how they connect and show love and it crosses generations. He collaborated with his son to fine tune the Annatto Rubbed Smoked Brisket that accompanies this recipe. For the Kare Kare, he evolves it to be a more modern and deconstructed take on the traditional Filipino dish but the way he makes it is very much rooted in how his mom makes the dish. It’s honed by her standard and her palate through Brady.

Kare Kare is a thick, savory, collagen rich peanut stew that often uses oxtail, tripe and tendon. Traditionally, peanuts are ground into a paste, ground rice thickens the stew and Annatto gives it that rich burnt orange color. These days, we use really good peanut butter instead of ground peanuts and rice. It is also usually accompanied by a bounty of vegetables like Bok choy, Eggplant, Long Beans, Okra and even Banana Heart. To help cut through the richness of the dish, we eat Kare Kare with rice and also a little side dish of Bagoong or fermented shrimp paste. This briny, salty taste cuts right through and punctuates every bite.

Brady’s version takes many of the traditional elements and evolves it. He takes his time, making this really about the processes and you feel the care and love. It’s an ode to slow food. For the protein, he uses an Annatto Rubbed Smoked Brisket he makes 2-3 days in advance. He also roasts the peanuts that garnishes the dish. Also, instead of just blanching or steaming the vegetables, he grills the bok choy and dresses it with a vinaigrette. We collaborated on making a roasted eggplant relish combining the eggplant and the bagoong. He also sautés the bagoong as instructed by his mom. There are no short cuts here (although we provide some tips in the recipe). If you are making this, enjoy the process, make “kwento” or tell stories while you are cooking. Spend the time and cook with love.

PASSING DOWN & CREATING TRADITION - ANNATTO RUBBED SMOKED BRISKET

Slow food. A term so many of us hear and few practice. Modern times and busy schedules have made quality family time a thing that needs to be carefully planned out in advance, and being able to spend hours or even days to make food is a luxury typically traded in for convenience. The family food traditions passed down and created by Brady Tuazon’s family are literal recipes to successfully have both. Having both means time invested in making traditional Filipino dishes, with no corners cut, choosing the right way instead of the fast way, and that time also spent nurturing the bonds between three generations.

Having a son who chose a culinary career path gave Brady a way to connect as a parent in the similar way he connects with his mother, through food. Team Tikim has talked and raved about his famous (to us) Smoked Short Rib Sinigang, so it’s no surprise that a creation by those three generations that marries the American method of smoking brisket with the traditional preparation of Kare Kare is a hit and home run.

Between Brady’s food obsession and his son’s culinary brain, they experimented with a beloved American BBQ favorite to take center stage in an iconic Filipino dish. The layering and infusing of flavors into the protein was the direct result of some quality father and son time in the kitchen. The new family recipe couldn’t be complete without guidance from the person Brady learned from, his mom. In-person and over FaceTime, cooking food together has been valuable bonding time between Brady and his mom. Her recipe and intricate methods for Kare Kare provide the solid foundation for which the annatto rubbed smoked brisket can shine.

We’re so lucky Brady shared this special experience and recipe with us, and we’re really excited to share it with you. This recipe dives into Smoking the Brisket. We have a separate recipe post for the Kare Kare so please look out for that. This brisket is also good on its own and can be used as a foundation for other dishes. We made a Brisket Curry with some of the leftovers and it was terrific in this application too.

FILIPINO SOPAS

One of our favorite Filipino spots in Portland is Baon Kainan. It is a food cart in the Concourse Coffee pod together with Matta and No Q No! Taqueria. It is owned by Geri and Ethan Leung, originally Seattle natives who popped up with Matta a few times last year and made a go of it in Portland. In their first year, they won cart of the year which helped establish them and Filipino food in the Portland food scene. Their food is fresh and cart made and you feel the love. When we were thinking of potential contributors for Filipino Food Month, we reached out to Baon Kainan and Geri quickly replied about wanting to share her Sopas recipe. It’s a perfect dish for Portland with our weather that can turn chilly at a drop of a hat.

Sopas is a homestyle Filipino noodle soup generally made with macaroni, vegetables and chicken in a creamy, milky broth often made with stock and milk (in the Philippines, evaporated milk). There are many variations to this dish, predominantly in what protein is used. Aside from chickent, sometimes it’s ground pork, corned beef and hot dogs (or a combination of), that is almost customized by family.

As Geri describes:

“This is one of our favorite Filipino soup recipes. It’s a dish we come back to anytime we need some comfort in a pinch or when we’re feeling under the weather. It’s fast to make, allows the use of leftover ingredients, it’s great the next day and essential when feeling under the weather.”

Some notes and tips from Geri:

Using rotisserie chicken and bouillon may seem like cheating, but there’s no harm in using these ingredients as a fast way to cook a delicious and nutritious meal–great for busy professionals, parents–well, everyone!

If you want to make your own chicken stock–and you have some time–roast chicken bones (or the rotisserie chicken bones) with onions, garlic, and any herbs of your choice for 20 - 30 minutes. Then add the roasted bones and veggies in water and boil for a couple of hours. Strain the broth and discard the bones and veggies.

• You can use whatever milk for this recipe–we used oat milk for this recipe.

• This meal is meant to be easy so versatility is welcome–use whatever veggies or protein you have left over.

• Make this soup vegetarian or even vegan by substituting a plant-based milk and using vegan/vegetarian meat alternatives.

Geri learned how to make Sopas from her mom. This dish was one of her most comforting dishes and she could make it in a pinch without compromising taste. Geri would then make this for Ethan during their dating years so it’s got sentimental value on all counts. Eat it with some steamed rice, it’s comfort food in a bowl.

TROUT SISIG

My love for food and my now love for cooking is heavily influenced by my family. You can say that I grew up surrounded by foodies — my parents, grand parents, aunts and uncles and even their friends were always talking about food, where to get the best food and some of them were also excellent cooks. Within my family, my grandmother or Lola was the queen. She grew up in the seaside town of Malabon in the Philippines and had an excellent palate that also came through her cooking. We judge all Filipino food by her gold standard. When she passed away quite a few years ago, Tita Lydia (her daughter and my aunt), carried her legacy but her years of living in the US and also her deep interest in cooking further refined my Lola’s dishes. She refined based on ingredients that are available, always prioritizing quality and what is local. She also loved all food so she applied cooking techniques she learned from other cultures that elevated the dishes from their humble home cooking roots. She taught people how to cook from her home studio and to get an invite to her lunches or dinners is a coveted opportunity because she is a consummate entertainer.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent some time with Tita Lydia to start to pull together our family recipes and also the recipes that she is well known for so we can start to document this for ourselves and also for the next generation of our family. I’ve visited her twice in the Bay Area and we’ve cooked together, shared stories and documented close to 30 recipes for her website that we are still building. This Trout Sisig recipe is one that Tita Lydia shared with me and I was amazed how easy it is to make. Sisig is traditionally made with pork and offal but the fish version has also started to gain interest as a slightly healthier version.

Fish dishes often intimidate me because cooking seafood is not as forgiving as cooking meat. However, this particular recipe is one that I found to be one that I know I can easily make especially when entertaining because it is so simple but so good and also looks quite impressive. I’ve made it twice. Once at home for my partner and myself and also for Luna’s birthday lunch for the first time for friends.

The most important part is really acquiring the fish. It requires fresh whole trout. depending on the size of the trout the meat can vary from white to pink. For this recipe, smaller trout is preferred (around 1 to 1.5 lbs) and for this size, the meat is white. Traditionally, milkfish or bangus is used. In the PNW, it’s quite easy to find this in your local market. When you purchase your fish, you can have it cleaned, butterflied and deboned making it ready for use at home with your fishmonger doing all the work. The rest, you will find, is quite simple.

I hope you enjoy this recipe and if you are Filipino (and a practicing Catholic), it’s perfect for Good Friday. That’s a bonus and not a requirement for making this dish. 😂

❤️Tricia

SHORT RIB SINIGANG

I’m from Manila, and growing up, I only really ever knew Sinigang, soured with tamarind (sampalok) or sour guava (bayabas), and with either pork (baboy), shrimp (hipon), or fish (isda). Beef was usually used for Nilagang Baka (much like a French Pot-au-Feu) or Bulalo (similar to Nilaga but with more usage of bone marrow and shanks, where the soup is rich with collagen and fat).

My world changed when a fellow Filipino in town that we met through food (Kuya @brrraaady) made a batch of smoked Short Rib Sinigang. He shared it with a handful of us since we had a canceled @tikimpdx holiday event at @magnapdx due to snow and Covid. He smoked shortribs and veggies before cooking them all together in a rich tamarind broth, and it blew our minds. The way the shortrib bones enrich the broth, giving it a palate coating texture that feels luxurious, takes Sinigang to a whole new level.

Needless to say, short ribs are now in my regular rotation for the choice of protein when I make Sinigang. Because I don’t have a @traegergrills, I sauté a little tomato paste in the fond from searing the beef as a smoky flavor hack before putting the meat back in the pot to simmer until tender. The depth of flavor in this Sinigang is addictive. This recipe is beginner friendly as it uses Sinigang mix as many households use to get the flavor right in a foolproof way. Try it out for yourself!

❤️ Nori